by Peter Weinberger

What began as a family vacation to Rome unexpectedly turned into a front row seat to history. From both the air and the ground, I witnessed newly elected Pope Leo XIV address a crowd of more than 100,000 outside the Vatican on May 8.

Our hotel was just a few hundred yards from St. Peter’s Square and Basilica. I rushed back and forth from a rooftop patio to street level, literally running to capture a new pope meet Rome for the first time. It all culminated in a centuries-old tradition: white smoke billowing from a small chimney atop the Sistine Chapel — signaling to the world a new pope had been chosen. As the smoke rose, the crowd surged toward the square, eager to see Pope Leo.

The crowd in St. Peter’s Square waits for the traditional smoke signal from the Sistine Chapel the evening of May 7. Black smoke billowed shortly thereafter, indicating a new pope had not yet been elected. After three more votes on May 8, Pope Leo XIV was chosen. Courier photo/Peter Weinberger

Papal conclave begins

Excitement had been building in Rome since the papal conclave to select the 267th pope began May 7 — continuing a tradition that spans over 2,000 years. By late afternoon, people were already gathering in St. Peter’s Square, waiting for the smoke that would signal a decision.

That’s when my wife Betsy and I joined the growing crowd of faithful and curious onlookers.

By 7 p.m. the square was packed with thousands of people. Everyone was looking skyward, hoping for the white smoke. Black smoke meant no decision. And because a two-thirds majority is required, most didn’t expect an answer that soon.

Seven p.m. came and went with no smoke. By 9 p.m., still nothing. The crowd was getting louder, more restless, but only a few wanted to leave.

Finally, around 9:15 p.m., black smoke rose into the sky. A low groan rippled through the crowd. No pope yet. The conclave would resume the next day.

Part of the crowd of more than 100,000 listening to new Pope Leo XIV’s first address. Courier photo/Peter Weinberger

Day two: May 8

There was a sense of urgency now. We heard the cardinals were prepared to hold up to four votes on this second day. Still, by late morning, we’d already seen black smoke twice — no pope. But the crowd kept growing. As evening approached, people kept streaming into the square, and the main street leading to the Basilica, Via della Conciliazione, was close to packed from end to end.

By 5:30 p.m., the anticipation was at a fever pitch.

Then, at 6:08 p.m., it happened — white smoke.

Cheers erupted. The crowd surged. People shouted while running, “There’s white smoke! There’s white smoke!” Giant video screens along the main street showed close-ups of the chimney. It was real. The people had a new pope.

After a day of speculation, the sight of white smoke emanating from Vatican City’s Sistine Chapel on May 8 sent thousands of people from all around Rome rushing toward St. Peter’s Square to hear the first address from new Pope Leo XIV. Courier photo/Peter Weinberger

Pope Robert Francis Prevost — now Pope Leo XIV — had just made history as the first American to lead the Catholic Church. I could feel the joy vibrating through the streets. It was electric. Incredible history making moments that we just happened to stumble into.

Waiting to see him

It took about 45 minutes for the pope to appear on the balcony. In that time, the crowd swelled to around 100,000. Phones were raised. Tears were shed. People were singing, praying, and holding their breath for that first glimpse.

From where I stood about a quarter-mile away, I didn’t have the raw emotional experience of those pressed up front. It reminded me of a huge concert, where the most passionate fans fight to get closest to the stage. But even from back where we were, the energy was contagious. Rome was glowing — happy, overjoyed, even exuberant.

Security and crowd control was tight inside St. Peter’s Square as supporters waited for Pope Leo XIV to make his first appearance. Courier photo/Peter Weinberger

And unlike so many large events that take a dark turn, this one didn’t. No riots. No violence. No destruction. Just unity. People had gathered for one reason: to welcome a new spiritual leader.

When Pope Leo XIV finally stepped forward, he spoke the words that reminded us what this moment was all about:

“I would like this greeting of peace to resound in your hearts, in your families, among all people, wherever they may be, in every nation and throughout the world. Peace be with you!”

Standing there among thousands, I knew I had witnessed something rare. Not just a piece of history, but a moment of hope.

Thousands clog the streets of Rome on May 8 vying for a glimpse of new Pope Leo XIV. Courier photo/Peter Weinberger

More than 100,000 people took to the streets of Rome on May 8. Courier photo/Peter Weinberger

A crowd of more than 100,000 filled the streets around St. Peter’s Square on May 8 to listen to new Pope Leo XIV’s first address. Leo, the 267th supreme pontiff of the Catholic Church — and the first American — spoke about peace and acceptance. Courier photo/Peter Weinberger